Looking to finish your woodworking project but ran out of polyurethane? Don’t worry.
Depending on your requirements, you can opt for epoxy, lacquer, sanding sealer, tung oil, linseed oil, beeswax, etc. While epoxy is more durable, lacquer and sanding sealers are easy to apply. Similarly, tung oil, linseed oil, and beeswax are good eco-friendly alternatives to polyurethane.
Alternative | Characteristic |
---|---|
Epoxy | Most durable alternative |
Lacquer | Easy-to-apply |
Sanding Sealer | Produces a smooth finihs |
Tung Oil | Produces a smooth finish |
Linseed Oil | Natural and warm finish |
Beeswax | Top coat with good moisture resistance |
We tested several finishes in our studio and came up with the 6 best alternatives to polyurethane that can be used for your woodworking projects.
Pros | Cons |
---|---|
Extremely durable and long-lasting | Can be difficult to work with |
Resistant to water, chemicals, and stains | Requires proper ventilation during application |
Self-leveling and easy to apply | May yellow over time |
Can be used as a glossy finish | May be more expensive than polyurethane |
Offers excellent protection against scratches and abrasions | May take longer to cure than polyurethane |
Epoxy is worth considering as an alternative to polyurethane in applications where strength, durability, and chemical resistance are important. It may be more expensive and difficult to work with, but its superior properties make it an excellent choice for many applications.
Epoxy is stronger and more durable than polyurethane. It can resist tension, compression, chemicals, moisture, and UV rays.
It can also look different depending on the color, tint, and transparency. Unfortunately, epoxy is more costly and harder to use than polyurethane.
Also, epoxy requires careful mixing and application, and it is hard to remove.
Polyurethane is easier and cheaper to use, but it is weaker and less resistant.
Pros | Cons |
---|---|
Dries quickly | Can be toxic and flammable |
Provides a hard and durable finish | May require more coats than polyurethane |
Can be sanded and polished to a high gloss | May not be as resistant to heat and chemicals as polyurethane |
Offers a wide range of colors and sheens | May not be as long-lasting as polyurethane |
Can be easily repaired and touched up | – |
Lacquer is a viable alternative to water-based polyurethane. It is easy to apply and dries quickly. However, if you need a durable finish that can withstand heavy traffic and outdoor elements, polyurethane is the better choice.
One of the main advantages of lacquer over polyurethane is its ease of application.
Lacquer can be applied using a spray gun, making the process much faster and more efficient.
It dries much faster than polyurethane, which means that multiple coats can be applied in a short time.
Furthermore, lacquer is easier to repair, and a recoat can be applied easily to repair any damage or defects.
However, it is not as durable as polyurethane and is vulnerable to scratches and water damage (forms white rings).
As a result, it is not recommended for outdoor applications or high-traffic areas.
Pros | Cons |
---|---|
Can be used to seal porous wood | May not provide as much protection as polyurethane |
Helps to create a smooth and even surface | May not be as durable as polyurethane |
Can be sanded and stained | May not be as long-lasting as polyurethane |
Dries quickly | Not as water-resistant as polyurethane |
Can be used as a primer for other finishes | Not as UV-resistant as polyurethane |
Sanding sealer is good for smoothing soft or porous woods, but it doesn’t protect as well as polyurethane. It’s a quick-drying primer that fills the wood pores and makes the final finish sit on top.
It’s best for situations where you want a smooth surface, not heavy-duty protection.
Polyurethane is thicker and stronger, and it can handle more wear and tear. It’s better for working with hard or durable wood.
Pros | Cons |
---|---|
Provides a natural and warm appearance | May require additional coats of finish |
Easy to apply | May not be as durable as polyurethane |
Resistant to water and mildew | May take longer to dry |
Can be used on a variety of surfaces | Is prone to scratches if not maintained properly |
Can be applied with a brush or cloth | – |
Tung oil can be a great alternative to oil-based polyurethane if you’re looking for a natural-looking finish that highlights the wood’s natural beauty. While it may not be as durable or fast-drying as polyurethane, it provides a unique and authentic finish that can add character and charm to any project.
Tung oil is a penetrating oil that gives wood a natural, low-sheen finish.
It is easy to apply with a rag or brush and can be repaired by sanding and recoating.
Tung oil resists water, scratches, and dings but not as well as polyurethane. It also takes longer to dry and can darken the wood over time.
Pros | Cons |
---|---|
Natural and non-toxic | Long drying time |
Enhances wood grain | Can darken over time |
Easy to apply | Low durability and protection |
Affordable | Can attract dirt and grime |
Can be used indoors or outdoors | Requires frequent reapplication |
Penetrates deep into wood fibers | Can leave a sticky residue |
Can be used on unfinished or finished wood | Can yellow over time |
Can be easily maintained and repaired | Can promote mold and mildew growth in humid environments |
Linseed oil is a natural oil that protects and enhances wood. It comes from flax seeds and penetrates deep into the wood fibers. It does not have harmful chemicals and is easy to apply on many wooden surfaces.
Unfortunately, linseed oil dries slowly and can be sticky. It also needs regular upkeep and reapplication, as it can break down and yellow over time.
It is not as strong as polyurethane and may not suit high-traffic areas or low-maintenance preferences.
Pros | Cons |
---|---|
Natural and non-toxic | Needs frequent reapplication |
Enhances the natural beauty of wood | May not offer sufficient protection |
Easy to apply and buff | Can be difficult to remove for refinishing |
Can be used on a variety of surfaces | Not as durable as polyurethane |
Can be combined with other natural oils | May darken or yellow over time |
Offers a soft, satin finish | May not hold up well to heat or moisture |
Can be used for spot repairs | Limited resistance to scratches and abrasions |
Beeswax is a natural durable finish that repels water and enhances the wood grain. It does not have harmful chemicals and is easy to apply with a cloth or brush. It is good for eco-friendly projects.
Unfortunately, beeswax is not as strong as polyurethane and does not protect as well against scratches and dents.
It also needs more upkeep and reapplication, and it can yellow over time. It is not very water-resistant, and water can damage it.
When selecting an alternative to polyurethane, it is important to identify your requirement and select the best-suited alternative for your project.
Generally, epoxy is the best alternative when durability is desirable, whereas lacquer is preferable for its ease of application.
Similarly, a sanding sealer is preferable where you need to seal the pores of the wood to produce a smooth surface for additional finishes.
Apart from that, you can also opt for tung oil, linseed oil, and beeswax if your project demands an eco-friendly finish, irrespective of its durability.
Yes, you can apply epoxy over polyurethane, but it requires careful preparation and application. The surface must be clean, dry, and free of contaminants. The polyurethane must also be sanded to provide a rough surface for the epoxy to adhere to.
No, lacquer is not recommended for outdoor use because it is highly flammable and susceptible to UV damage. It is best suited for indoor use on furniture, musical instruments, and cabinets.
No, polyurethane is not toxic once allowed to cure, and its water-based variant is also considered to be food-safe. However, it can produce harmful fumes when applying the finish making it important to follow safety guidelines when using polyurethane, including wearing a respirator, gloves, and protective clothing and working in a well-ventilated area.